New winds are blowing on the gastro planet. Once the planetary uncertainty about what the post-pandemic scenario would be like has been overcome, haute cuisine has already configured its new map, which in the coming seasons will include notable absences, while other trends will gradually take hold. Some icons try out new formulas, associations, and scenarios, while others shut down.
The mixture (properly understood) is back in fashion, while the proliferation of
multipurpose spaces that include good food in their offer. We will make room in our libraries for books that are meant to be eaten, while new chefs and wineries will embrace their greener side.
The Danish René Redzepi, leader of the Nordic gastronomic revolution, has announced the
Noma closure, intermittently considered the best restaurant in the world in any serious ranking of the last two decades. The last service of the most famous farm restaurant in Copenhagen will take place at the end of 2024, but it is not a final goodbye, but rather an El Bulli-style farewell, since Redzepi will act as creative director of a laboratory that will include ephemeral openings and ecommerce of products and dishes selected or prepared by the chef himself.
This news reflects one of the biggest post-pandemic trends: the hospitality industry has discovered that it wants and must reconcile. In fact, the main reason put forward by the Danish cook is the
unsustainability of the effort required by haute cuisine.
In Spain, on the other hand, the good news is accumulating in the form of premieres, not to mention that we have reached
250 Michelin star restaurants. One of the newcomers is the work, precisely, of
Daniel Garcia, the chef who in 2019 gave up his three stars. He has not done badly: under the umbrella of the group that bears his name, some twenty restaurants are included, some of them crashed.
Tragabuches, by Dani García.
The chef returned to his essence a few months ago with the opening of
Tragabuches in his native Marbella, named after the first restaurant he ran in Ronda. Honest and Andalusian flavors for all audiences, non-stop cooking and devotion to the product are his flagship. Very soon, Dani García (who will also command openings in Paris, Dubai, Budapest, Amsterdam or Miami in 2023) plans to open the Madrid branch of Tragabuches.
The Asturian also embraces its roots
Nacho Manzano, which has inaugurated its NM in the Nastura space in Oviedo, an almost clandestine restaurant (25 people) whose decoration and menu speak of minimalism, honesty and audacity. “It is an intimate gastronomic concept in the middle of the city, different from anything we have done, but with the same roots”, he explained about NM, “a less conventional format that will give us the opportunity to extract the maximum potential of the nature and what excites us the most: knowing how to interpret each moment”. For the diner, this will translate into
a single designed menu that will change four times a year.
mix is more
We are fortunate witnesses of a new era of
cocktail bar. Often forgotten (if not despised), even by experts, the art of combination is vindicated by great masters, such as Mario Villalón and his team of
Angelita Madrid, chosen as the best cocktail bar in Spain in 2021. They have turned vegetable cocktails without ice (an ecological gesture that is not trivial) into the holy grail of trends. Angelita Madrid translates an unstoppable current: that of honoring the local product, from small artisans or from her orchard in Zamora.
In Barcelona, the mecca is
nutsdecorated by its owners, the interior designer
Lazaro Rosa Violan and the designer Josep María Morera: a traveled atmosphere, premium cocktails, live music and an exquisite selection of gourmet products to pair with are some of its many charms.
Nuts, in Barcelona.
At the Meliá Valencia hotel, one of the pioneers of national cocktails, Borja Cortina, opens the second
warsaw outside Asturias; the first was in Colorado, United States. He shares his creative, educated and cosmopolitan proposal with his older brother from Gijón and adds a poetic Art Deco interior design.
Warsaw, in Valencia,
And precisely in Asturias, in Pola de Siero, we find one of the most beautiful cocktail bars inside and out,
The stalls patio. Here, Alberto Díaz and Tania López have spent years developing recipes whose ingredients they collect themselves.
eat and shop
You will come for the shopping, you will stay for the gastronomy. And more now, after
Dabiz Munoz got a few months ago that his
RavioXO became the first restaurant located in a shopping center (in its case, El Corte Inglés de Castellana) with a Michelin star. Muñoz is also in luck for the opening of the new StreetXO at El Corte Inglés in Serrano. Larger and with better views than the previous one, it offers “unprecedented flavors in dishes with infinite creativity and served on original crockery”, according to Muñoz himself.
This combination of a shopping center and haute cuisine also triumphs on the last two floors of
WOW Conceptthe great concept store on Madrid’s Gran Vía, which occupies
The Penthouse, a restaurant with views and heart-stopping cuisine. In the kitchen, in charge of chef Javier Goya from the TriCiclo group, there will be “four hands” experiences, which will unite established chefs, star chefs and culinary creators every month.
Wow, in Madrid.
books to eat
The fever for gastronomy also floods the libraries. Publishers know this and feed us delicious titles like
Japan Vegetarian Gastronomyby Nancy Singleton Hachisu (Phaidon), recipes that the most authoritative voice of Japanese cuisine prepares from her farm in Saitama.
The man from Madrid
horcher turns 80 and celebrates it with a book that narrates the biography of the emblematic restaurant opened by a family fleeing Nazism and whose last name today is synonymous with good food and even better clientele: heads of state, artists, royals and more peek into the pages of Horcher (Planeta Gastro).
concern for the ecological footprint it has ceased to be an eccentricity to become a requirement of the best cooks. This is the case of Edorta Lamo, which in 2022 she obtained for
Arrea! the distinction for the best restaurateur in Euskadi and the first Michelin star. Located in Santa Cruz de Campezo, in the mountains of Alava, it owes its name and philosophy to the muleteers who passed through here on the route from Zaragoza to Bilbao and ate “whatever there was”. Today they find the raw material in less than 30 km around.
In Marbella, Fernando Villasclaras makes similar decisions in
The lake, also with a Michelin star. His local proposal is led by vegetables transformed into light preparations to enjoy.
In Albacete this trend is also breathed. In less than a year since its opening, Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo have managed to
Oba the first Michelin star and the Green star. “We build our proposal with more than 45 small producers who help us get unique products, some in danger of extinction, forgotten and almost unknown varieties,” they say.
Climate change forces wineries to readjust their production. As a result of this adaptation, excellent wines emerge, such as
Jean Leon 3055 Petit Verdot–Merlot 2020, with a gold medal in the international Mundus Vini competition. The Penedès winery is committed to the minority petit verdot variety due to its ability to cope with the new climate scenario and reformulates its 3055 organic red to make this variety the main blend.
In the Ribera del Duero, something similar happens in
Basconcillos Domaincertified as organic wine.